Saturday, September 18, 2010

NY menswear

For the most part I feel like there isn't really a lot to say about the menswear collections this NYFW, I mean yeah some were nice but I feel like most every collection I would just be saying the same thing about each one. There were obviously individual pieces from each collection that stood out but still....It would be nice to have seen something different, a little less of the same repetitive general look.

I would really like to see a lot less of suites with the exact same cut, the exact same cropped pants, the same plaid button up, the same shoes and those fucking jump suits etc ....Dont get me wrong I do like a cropped pant from time to time but is it really that hard to come up with something other than that. At least Duckie Brown changed it up a bit and added some prints, and color....Ugh it would just be nice to see the majority of New York designers do something fucking different for once. It just looked like one long never ending collection...It's really starting to make me wish this "trend" would die all together.

Anyways, some from that slew stood out more than others, and some I just felt like writing about regardless...

I'm not really sure what to think of this...A lot of looks/pieces are really ghetto looking, mostly the pants and . Also I'm not really what they were going for with those middle eastern looking shirt dress things. This had an uncomfortable amount of denim, a denim poncho? Really? I had high hopes for Rag&Bone, but this whole collection just just left me disappointed. Last seasons camo was better than this...Amongst the slew of too baggy jeans and awkward train engineer looks I did like the sweaters, cardigans, blazers, and some of the boots. I guess I was somewhat won over by that...  I will say it was a nice change from the sea of  "contemporary menswear designs" aka cropped pant suites, worker boots etc, you know the look.... 

3.1 Phillip Lim
YSL inspired safari jackets and minimalism this season at Lim. Not  my favorite collection , but I loved it none the less. I don't know that I would call Phillip Lims design aesthetic "minimal", but this season he took an almost complete minimal approach, obviously minus the paisley print sequins... etc. Which I was a little confused by I mean sequins really? I'm just going to ignore that part. Anyways I'm really feeling the use of brown leather here although the shirts looked a little Pheobe Philo inspired...Its alright though, I love them all the same. But the best part of all were the suites, well cut and styled amazingly, I don't think its possible to look bad in a suite with that well of a fit and cut.

I'm kind of obsessed with the whole aesthetic of this collection right now well dressed convicts from the 20's/30's were at N.Hoolywood this season. Perfectly awkward boxy fits, and I'm all for the "designer sweat pants trend" so seeing them here added to it, not to mention those striped pants..

Timo Weiland
This season Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstan played around with classic menswear by adding pops of color, prints and contrast. Like I've stated before it's the small details that make a collection, and this is a case and point example. Without the contrasting colors and prints, the plaid waist lines cuffs, and great socks, this collection would just be another bland collection like those I stated above..

RAD by Rad hourani.
I liked and would wear almost everything in this collection, but I'm still underwhelmed and a little disappointed. I don't really know what direction Rad Hourani is trying to take the uni-sex defusion line in, because it was the same thing he's done time and time again, some draping, leather pants and a bit of paneling. I would really like to see some progression, something? Anything? I'm getting bored. I would really just like to see it take on an entity of it's own, like other defusion lines have done (Miu Miu, Marc by Marc, Y-3 etc). Why even have a show if its just going to remain a "simplified" version of the main line. Stick to presentations, when see a show you expect progression.

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